SKU: 97365655171
philodendron white knight variegation stable

philodendron white knight variegation stable Philodendron 'White Knight' – Foliage Factory

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Description

philodendron white knight variegation stable Philodendron 'White Knight' – Foliage FactoryPhilodendron 'White Knight' Philodendron 'White Knight' is a white variegated Philodendron with deep burgundy to reddish stems and green leaves marked with cream white sectors, flecks and patches. The dark stems make the pale leaf sections stand out clearly and give the plant its strong green white and burgundy contrast. The plant forms a climbing stem with aerial roots and firm petioles. Young plants can stay fairly tight in the pot, while larger

Philodendron 'White Knight'

Philodendron 'White Knight' is a white-variegated Philodendron with deep burgundy to reddish stems and green leaves marked with cream-white sectors, flecks and patches. The dark stems make the pale leaf sections stand out clearly and give the plant its strong green-white-and-burgundy contrast.

The plant forms a climbing stem with aerial roots and firm petioles. Young plants can stay fairly tight in the pot, while larger plants are easier to manage on a pole, plank or trellis.

  • Stem colour: Burgundy to dark red stems and petioles.
  • Leaf pattern: Green leaves with cream-white flecks, patches or larger sectors.
  • Growth habit: Climbing Philodendron that benefits from support as it matures.
  • Pot growth: Best in a breathable substrate with steady warmth and good drainage.

Dark stems and cream-white variegation

Philodendron 'White Knight' is part of the white-variegated climbing Philodendron group in cultivation. It prefers warmth, filtered light and an open, moisture-retentive root mix.

Philodendron 'White Knight' carries burgundy to dark red stems with green leaves marked by cream-white variegation.

Care for Philodendron 'White Knight'

  • Light: Place in bright indirect light. Direct sun can mark the white leaf sections.
  • Substrate: Use a chunky aroid mix with bark, mineral components and some moisture retention.
  • Watering: Water when the upper substrate has dried and the pot feels lighter. Do not let the whole mix stay wet for long periods.
  • Support: Add a pole or board while the stem is still easy to guide.
  • Temperature: Keep above 18 °C and avoid cold windowsills when the substrate is damp.
  • Humidity: Moderate humidity helps new leaves open cleanly; airflow keeps soft new growth healthier.
  • Feeding: Use diluted balanced fertiliser during active growth, then reduce feeding when growth slows.

Leaf and stem problems to catch early

  • Crisp white patches: Check for direct sun, dry air or repeated drying between waterings.
  • Yellow lower leaves: Several yellow leaves at once usually point to wet roots, low temperature or poor drainage.
  • Small new leaves: Check light, roots and support. Larger growth is easier to maintain when the stem is guided upward.
  • Weak all-white shoots: Prune back to a node with enough green tissue if the plant keeps producing leaves with too little chlorophyll.
  • Pest marks on new growth: Fine speckling, distorted leaves or dark marks can indicate thrips or mites. Inspect early and isolate if needed.

Philodendron 'White Knight' can be propagated from stem cuttings with at least one healthy node. Cuttings with balanced green-and-white tissue are usually stronger than pieces carrying only very pale growth.

Safety for homes with pets

Keep Philodendron 'White Knight' away from pets and small children. Its tissues contain insoluble calcium oxalate crystals, which can cause mouth and throat irritation if eaten. Wear gloves if your skin reacts easily to fresh aroid sap.

Philodendron name and stem colour

Philodendron is part of Araceae, the aroid family. The genus name combines Greek roots for “loving” and “tree”, referring to the climbing habit common in the genus. Philodendron 'White Knight' has burgundy to dark red stems and petioles with cream-white variegated leaves.

Philodendron 'White Knight' combines dark burgundy-red stems with cream-white leaf sectors on green climbing growth.

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SKU: 97365655171

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Chris
Grantham, US
★★★★★ 5
Prefect fit
Size: CA12290-Premium, Size: CA12290-Premium
Excellent product! OEM Replacement. If you are buying for horse power gains. You will not really notice any difference
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Reviewed in the United States on February 18, 2025
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Brendon MO
Draper, US
★★★★★ 5
K and N is the best
Size: CA12290-Premium
In my opinion, you can’t buy a better air filter. Been buying them for all my cars since the 1990s.
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Reviewed in the United States on December 8, 2024
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Steve
Boise, US
★★★★★ 2
Does not fit 2023 Honda Accord as it says in the title
Size: CA12290-Premium, Size: CA12290-Premium
Does not fit 2023 Honda Accord as it says in the title. Seems like good quality otherwise.
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Reviewed in the United States on October 3, 2024
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Verified Purchase
Philip and Lucy
Draper, US
★★★★★ 5
Fits Toyota 2010 FJ cruiser
Perfect fit for a Toyota 2010 FJ cruiser. Install might have been the easiest cabin filter I've done in any car that new. Remove glove box, pull out the cover and replace it. Fits great and takes odors out from it sitting for 6 months in the driveway. No notice to less airflow when on any level of fan speed.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 30, 2026
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Verified Purchase
S
Omaha, US
★★★★★ 5
Comparison with POTAUTO filter: Very similar but cheaper
I bought a POTAUTO MAP 1033C and EPAuto CP846 cabin air filter to compare them for use in my 09 Legacy (gen 4). They both seemed comparable and are cheaper than most other, similar filters, though the POTAUTO was and still is ~33% more expensive than the EPAuto. Both seem built well-enough, considering they're only being used as relatively low-flow cabin filters. That said, the EPAuto is slightly better, mainly due to the white trim piece being unattached along one side on the bottom of the POTAUTO filter. Almost certainly nothing that will affect its performance or longevity, but it is interesting considering it's the more expensive of the two. However, it must be kept in mind that this is an incredibly small sample size. In one of my very scientific tests (/s), I held them up side by side and looked through them toward the sun (obviously being careful) to judge thickness/density and uniformity. Neither had any thin spots that I noticed, and they were pretty similar overall. One of them blocked slightly more light than the other, indicating more filtration, but I unfortunately don't remember which one. I feel like it was the EPAuto, but I don't really want to speculate as I could very well be wrong. What I do remember is that the difference was so minor that all else being equal, it wouldn't justify the cost difference between the two. In other words, even if the POTAUTO were the slightly better one, it wouldn't be worth the extra few dollars for the minimal amount of extra filtration. In another test, I compared the filters to each other and the old filter (which I'm pretty sure was OEM, but certainly not a charcoal filter, so it was significantly thinner) by blowing air from a compressor through them. I held the nozzle at roughly the same distance from each on one side of the filters, and I held my other hand at roughly the same distance from each on the other side. The old filter, unsurprisingly, let much more air flow through. Both charcoal filters were much more restrictive due to their extra thickness, leading me to feel much less air coming through. Both were roughly the same. Both filters also held up just fine to the strong blasts of air. I bought a couple other filters that I was going to cut to fit to use one or both with these filters as a pre-filter and/or additional charcoal layer. After the airflow test, I decided against this, as these are a lot more restrictive than OEM already, and I didn't want to push it, since that could at best cause issues with getting good airflow into the car, and at worst could damage the blower. If not for the fact many, many people have been using these and similar filters for a long time without apparent issue caused by this, I would hesitate to even use these. I haven't noticed a decrease in the airflow, but it's doubtful I would since I rarely turn the fan up past the first couple settings (usually have it on the first) if I have it running at all, and I have the center vents pulled out (to access the inside of the dash) which causes the flow at the vents to be reduced slightly. TL;DR - Both the POTAUTO and EPAuto charcoal filters appear to be a good choice, with the EPAuto having a slight edge on build quality (based on my limited sample size of one each) and a cheaper price. Filtration appears to be very similar between the two, certainly not enough of a difference to warrant the extra price for the POTAUTO over the EPAuto. Flow is significantly more restrictive than OEM filter but doesn't appear to be an issue. I give the EPAuto 5 stars and the POTAUTO 4 stars, only because the value of the POTAUTO is a good bit less (very similar or possibly even inferior quality for 33% more money). I can't speak to their longevity or performance, but I don't imagine either should prove to be an issue. -------------------------------------------------- As a side note relating specifically to the Legacy: replacing the cabin filter in this car is a PITA. It's not overly difficult per se, but a serious pain and certainly not something you're going to do when you have a spare few minutes. I'd rate it probably around a 3.5/10 in difficulty and a 7/10 for annoyance. While you can sort of access it by removing the manual compartment, you can't remove the tray through that. So you need to actually take the whole glove box out, which requires removing the side panel, unhooking the string/loop that keeps it from falling all the way down, and removing a few plastic screws, which can be a bit of a pain (and apparently Subaru loves them since they're all over the car). A stubby Philips driver will be helpful. Once you have the glove box out of the way, you have to unscrew several more of those plastic screws to remove the plastic cover between the glove box and the filter. This hole is where you gain access. Be careful when removing the old filter as loose dirt and debris may fall out and make a bit of a mess. You don't really want to get any in the fan below it if you can help it. Reverse the steps to reassemble it, and remember to reattach the string. Getting the glove box back in its track can be a bit of a challenge; in my experience from doing it multiple times I've found you sort of half force it and half don't. That is, it'll likely offer some resistance even if it's lined up, so if you try to baby it you'll probably be there a while, but also play with the alignment a bit to see if you can get it without marring up the tab and the slot on the right side too much. All in all, expect to spend anywhere from 15-45 minutes on this, and make sure you have a standard length as well as a shorter or stubby Philips screwdriver. I have to say, when it comes to air filters, this car is horrible. The air intake filter is a pain to change, too--much worse than most if not all other cars I've done. -------------------------------------------------- Keywords: Subaru Legacy, fourth gen, fourth generation, 4th gen, 4th generation, 03, 04, 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009
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Reviewed in the United States on September 29, 2017

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